Braised Sweet Anchovies멸치조림

Myeolchi-jorim is the banchan that sits in every Korean refrigerator, tucked in a corner container, ready to be pulled out whenever the table needs one more side dish. It is dried anchovies glazed in a sweet soy sauce, and it is the definition of practical Korean cooking -- cheap, long-lasting, nutritious, and surprisingly addictive.

The dry-toasting step at the beginning is what separates a crispy version from a soggy one. Raw dried anchovies straight from the bag have residual moisture. Toasting them in a dry pan for just two minutes drives off that moisture and creates a crunchier texture that holds up better when coated in sauce. Skip this step and the anchovies absorb too much liquid, turning chewy instead of crispy.

Size matters with this recipe. Medium-sized dried anchovies (about 2-3 inches long) are ideal. The tiny ones used for anchovy stock are too small and get lost in the sauce. The large ones meant for stock-making are too fishy and tough for this preparation. Medium anchovies -- sold in separate bags at Korean grocery stores -- have the right balance of crunch and flavor.

The sauce is a classic jorim formula: soy sauce for salt and color, corn syrup for sweetness and that characteristic gloss. The corn syrup is doing double duty here -- it sweetens the sauce and creates a sticky coating that clings to each anchovy. Honey or rice syrup can substitute, but the texture will be slightly different.

This banchan improves over a day or two in the fridge as the flavors meld, and it keeps for about a week. Many Korean families make a large batch on the weekend and portion it out through the week. It is one of those dishes that requires almost no thought to make but adds reliable flavor to any meal.