Steamed Clams조개찜

Jogae-jjim is Korean steamed clams at their simplest, and simplicity is the whole point. When you have good clams, you do not want to bury them under heavy sauce. Garlic, water, heat, done.

The purging step is not optional. Clams live in sand, and they store sand inside their shells. Thirty minutes in cold salted water (about one tablespoon of salt per quart) convinces the clams they are still in the ocean, so they relax and spit out the grit. Skip this and you will be crunching sand with your first bite.

Use cold water, not warm. Warm water stresses the clams and can kill them before cooking, which means they will not open properly and might taste off. The water should be cool enough that the clams stay alive and active -- you will see them occasionally squirt water during the soak.

Littleneck clams and Manila clams are both excellent choices. Manila clams are smaller and sweeter, littlenecks are meatier. Either way, buy them from a store with good turnover -- fresh clams should smell like the ocean, not like fish.

The cooking is fast. High heat, covered pot, five to seven minutes. The clams open as they cook, releasing their natural liquor into the water below. This broth is liquid gold -- concentrated ocean flavor with garlic. Some people drink it straight from the pot. Do not throw it away.

Discard any clams that refuse to open after seven minutes of steaming. This is a food safety rule, not a suggestion. Clams that do not open were dead before cooking and may not be safe to eat.

The optional gochugaru adds a subtle warmth without overpowering the clams. Just a teaspoon swirled into the broth at the end. Green onion goes on top for color and a mild onion bite. Serve the whole thing in a bowl with the broth, and have plenty of rice ready to soak it up.