Korean Steamed EggGyeran Jjim

Gyeran jjim is the banchan that disappears first. A bowl of silky, puffed steamed egg arrives at the table and within two minutes it has deflated slightly and half of it is gone. At Korean BBQ restaurants, it's often served in the stone pot right off the heat, still bubbling at the surface.

The water ratio is the whole recipe. Equal parts water to beaten egg — about half a cup of water for three eggs. I got this wrong twice before I measured carefully. The first attempt used too little water and the egg was dense and almost rubbery. The second used too much and it never quite set. The equal ratio produces the right texture: just set but still trembling, almost custard-like.

The recipe says to stir gently with chopsticks as the edges begin to set, then cover and reduce to low heat. This gentle stirring distributes heat evenly so the center cooks through without the outside overcooking. After that, you cover and wait — about eight to ten minutes. The puffing happens toward the end and it's satisfying to watch through the lid.

I made gyeran jjim for a friend named Kwame from Ghana who was cooking alongside me in a shared kitchen in Amsterdam. He was making something with eggs too — a scramble — and asked why I was adding water to mine. I explained the ratio and the steam technique. He was skeptical, watched the whole process, then tried the result.

He said the texture was completely different from what he expected eggs to feel like. Light in a way that scrambled eggs weren't. He asked me to write down the ratio on the back of a receipt, which I did.

Serve immediately. It deflates within minutes but the taste doesn't change.