Korean Tuna StewChamchi Jjigae

Chamchi jjigae is the stew I made the most during my twenties. Canned tuna, a potato, half a zucchini, some onion, garlic, soy sauce — ingredients that lived in my kitchen permanently regardless of what else was there. Total time: twenty minutes. The result was always better than it had any right to be given the ingredient list.

The trick that took me a while to figure out was the order of additions. Potato goes in first because it needs the most time. Everything else — zucchini, onion, garlic — goes in five minutes later. Tuna and tofu go in last, just three or four minutes before serving. If the tuna goes in too early it breaks apart into flakes and loses its texture. In last, gently stirred, it stays in recognizable chunks.

Tuna packed in oil versus water-packed — the oil version makes a noticeably richer stew. The oil from the can distributes through the broth and adds body. I use oil-packed for cold evenings when I want something satisfying, and water-packed when I'm trying to keep things lighter.

I introduced this stew to a former friend named Pita from the Fijian coast who was living in Auckland on a working visa. She was skeptical about canned fish in a hot stew — her experience with canned tuna was sandwiches and cold salads. I made a pot one Sunday afternoon, served it over rice, and watched her go quiet for a moment.

She said: this is not what I expected. She meant it well. She made it herself the following week and texted me to say she'd had it three days in a row.

Chamchi jjigae is a beginner recipe that doesn't taste like one. If you have a can of tuna and a potato, you can make this tonight.