Kimchi DumplingsKimchi Mandu

Mandu-making in Korean households is traditionally a group activity — families gather around a low table, each person handling a different part of the process, and the conversation fills the time between filling and folding. The New Year holiday (Seollal) is the biggest occasion, when tteokguk (rice cake soup) often gets mandu added to it.

Kimchi mandu is the most popular variety. The filling combines fermented kimchi with tofu and a small amount of pork, which keeps it lighter than pure meat dumplings. The kimchi must be squeezed of its liquid before mixing — thoroughly — or the filling will be wet and the wrappers will break during cooking. Same with the tofu: crumble it and squeeze it in your hand or a cloth until it feels almost dry.

I made kimchi mandu for the first time with my mother, who corrected my folding technique three times before accepting the result. The folds should seal the edge completely with no air pockets — gaps mean the filling leaks into the oil during pan-frying.

The pan-fry, steam, crisp technique (known as gyoza-style for the Japanese equivalent) produces a bottom that is crunchy and a top that is soft and chewy. Add a small amount of water to the hot pan, cover immediately, and the steam cooks the filling through without drying out the wrappers. Remove the lid after five minutes and let the water evaporate completely so the bottom crisps back up.

Kimchi mandu keep well frozen: lay them flat on a parchment-lined tray until solid, then transfer to a bag. Cook from frozen by adding 2 minutes to the steaming time.